Sunset Strip

Broome and Cape Leveque

October 14 to 25

What does one do when one arrives for the first time on the west coast of Australia? One takes many photos of red sunsets and red rocks (set against blue seas) and then more red sunsets! 

Broome is beautiful. Very laid back and unsophisticated. There are resorts aplenty around Cable Beach but we're well out of tourist season so the pace is cruisy. It's also hot and humid so we are dipping into that azure water often.

Random Broome shots of red dirt and rock set against that gorgeous blue sea. 

Roebuck Bay, Broome's main harbour. Even it has red dirt and blue water.  

Town Beach.

  

We pulled into a park one block from Cable Beach. We ride our bikes to the beach most mornings and evenings for a swim and a play. You know what is coming. Many photos of sunsets, interspersed with photos of camels taking the remaining few tourists for a leisurely stroll.

One day we rode our bikes down to the beach. Slightly different sunset shots. Garry did well with this one.

 

 Every man and his 4WD is on the beach at sunset.

We were told the Horizontal Falls north-east of Broome was a must-see. David Attenborough describes them as one of the wonders of the world. They are only accessible by air (or a long sea journey from Derby) so we dug deep and booked the seaplane. It was spectacular.

Garry scored the front seat ... again.
It was an exciting ride into Talbot Bay, winding between the steep cliffs before landing on the water.

 

Cable Beach from the air.  

Cape Leveque: We were there on the ground a few days later. 

The Buccaneer Archipelago 

Huge tidal movement in King Sound which accounts for the Horizontal Falls.  

And there they are. At high tide the water flows into the bay at the top of the pic through the two narrow openings. 

As the tide falls, the water builds up behind the rock openings and tumbles down in a chaotic rush of white water.

(PS. That strange rope at the top of the pic is attached to the seaplane) 

The top falls. Too dangerous for boats when the tide is rising or falling. The story goes they threw a 44 gallon watertight drum into the seething mass one day and it reappeared 45 minutes later, battered and very bruised. 

Approaching the lower falls. 

Passing through the lower falls.

Strange people ready to risk life and limb at the mighty falls.

An hour later, at the change of tide, the top falls were as calm as a mill pond.
 It would have been wonderful to watch it gathering speed as the water rushed back in but our time was up :(

 

Feeding the Tawny Nurse Sharks. They are not aggressive but will give you a good nibble if you jump on them.

 

Some of the amazing rock formations in Talbot Bay. 

Back in Broome. I, of course, chose my outfit especially so I was colour co-ordinated with the aircraft.

Cape Leveque

Cape Leveque  on the Dampier Peninsular is the north-western most point of Australia. We were told the road was unsuitable for vans so abandoned Myrtle for a few days. It was not so bad. Savannah Way through Hell's Gate was much worse. Just FYI Burnsies!

We visited a few communities on the way up. Their churches stood out. This is the Sacred Heart Church at Beagle Bay.

 

The pulpit, window frames and floors are inlaid with mother of pearl shells and cowries.

Quite beautiful.  

Christ the Church at Lombadina. This church is a bit more humble but very appealing. 

Made from paperbark, it is rough-hewen and has no doors.  

Finally to the cape. A gorgeous spot.

The lighthouse was built in 1911 and marks the entrance to King Sound. After it was automated in 1986, the surrounding land was returned to its indigenous owners.

Long empty beaches. Perfect for you-know-what Ms Judy.

 

Garry being camera shy. Lucky I didn't have a microphone to capture the choice words.

Sunset at  Cape Leveque. Ahhhhhh 

Another day, another sunset. 

Garry wouldn't believe me when I said I wanted to set the camera up for an auto shot. 

What did he mean with this one finger gesture? Rude man.

Finally I convinced him and this was the result. Another ahhhhhh....

A tour of Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm brought out the oyster farmer in Garry. So many questions, so little time. 

Where's Wally? Checking out the pearling/oyster boats.

The pearl inside the oyster we opened. We weren't able to keep it. Spoil sports.

 

But I did manage to wear this $18,000 strand for 30 seconds. The lady is standing behind holding onto it!

One final word from Broome. If you are thinking to visit, factor in a trip to the Broome Historical Museum - a fabulous insight into life during the heyday of pearling luggers and much, much more - to Sun Pictures - the oldest outdoor picture garden in the world - and the kebab shop Land of the Pharaohs. Garry's had a few kebab's in his life; he says this shop serves the best.

The theatre is looking a bit worse for wear but it has a great atmosphere.
We saw Radical Reels, a series of short films showcasing extreme sports (scary), and Last Cab to Darwin (excellent).