Red Centre Rhapsody

Kings Canyon, MacDonnell Ranges and Alice Springs

Northern Territory

March 9 to 19, 2016

This was the view from our camp site at Kings Canyon in the Watarrka National Park, about 200kms north of Uluru as the crow flies. What a magic spot. Just when we thought this landscape couldn't thrill us further, the canyon blew our little minds.

The Kings Canyon Rim Walk is about 6km and is closed if the temperature exceeds 36 degrees. We were up and at it by 7am.  A steep initial climb then an easy meander around the edge of the sandstone canyon, a plunge into a narrow chasm with pools and waterfalls, all the time threading between vast beehive domes. The canyon is a tad younger than Uluru at 440 million years.

In thrall of the canyon.

Getting high ... again. Nice boots, Jen.

Are you coming or not? Gaz among the fabulous beehive domes. 

Moving right along ... 

... but sometimes you've just got to stop and marvel.

The precipice.

Sheer cliffs. This last slip occurred in the 1930s and hasn't yet weathered to deep red. 

Gorge and trees reflected in the pool in the Garden of Eden.

Looking back up at the gorge rim from the river bed. 

Beautiful red river gums line the creek.

We met a few ferals along the way.

Friendly dingo pup checking us out. 

Appraising Pedro and Myrtle.

Wanna come along for the ride pup dog?

Wild Ships of the Desert.

Brumbies looking sleek from the lush grasses.

The MacDonnell Ranges were next on the itinerary. These massive quartzite ridges stretch either side of Alice Springs - east and west - for 640km. We ventured west first and set up camp in Ormiston Gorge. The West Macs had benefited from recent rain and looked a picture with a stunning mantle of green. 

Looking across the Finke River towards Ormiston Gorge. A bit of geography: The Finke River is one of the oldest rivers in the world. It travels 600km from the MacDonnell Ranges before sinking into the western edge of the Simpson Desert.

The 6km Pound Walk beckoned the first day.  It wanders across the ridge behind the gorge, dropping into a wide valley before trailing along the river bed and back into the gorge. There was a lot of water in the river so we knew there was a swim at the end - a delightful prospect in 38 degree heat.

Getting high again.

Going for green. So pretty.

Trekking through the valley.

Beautiful rock formations on either side.

Ormiston River paddles its way towards the gorge.

Ormiston Gorge looms above us. 

There were few markers so we just had to pick our way over the rocks knowing there was only one way out.

That swim is getting closer.

Here we go ...

Back to the home camp waterhole. It was a great walk with a refreshing finale.

The next day we ventured to Glen Helen Gorge and "Resort" which also promised a cooling water hole in the Finke River. Not so impressive.

Garry traverses the Finke River looking for the water hole. 

More of a gap than a gorge and the water hole left much to be desired. 

The "resort" water hole proved the better option. 

A couple of other spots of interest before we leave the West Mac Ranges.

Classic Albert Namatjira country. We could see the inspiration for his paintings everywhere. 

The Ochre Pits so revered by the Aborigines.

Amazing colours.

Serpentine Gorge. A sacred and dangerous place according to the local people. Swimming is banned.

Ellery Creek Big Hole. A magic swimming spot despite the biting fish.

We then crossed over into the East MacDonnell Ranges. There are no swimming holes in the East Macs so we kept it to a few walks and then scurried back to the pool in Alice Springs.

The Panorama Walk at Trephina Gorge in the East Macs.

Drier than the West Macs but still displaying a lovely green sheen. 

More Red River gums in dry river beds.

Two views of Corroboree Rock, another sacred site.

Jessie Gap - a natural gap in the range. 

Rock art depicting the caterpillar dreaming in Emily Gap.

We have been in Alice Springs for almost a week doing minor repairs, attending to business and trying to rid the vehicles of red dust. Alice is a bustling, vibrant town with an interesting history.  It obviously has its share of problems, not just with the Indigenous folk. There is a strong police presence and buildings are protected by high gates, fences and barbed wire.
We struggled to understand the dynamics of the town but a visit to the Araluen Arts Centre and Museum of Central Australia was enlightening. A remarkable exhibition entitled "We Don't Need a Map" as well as the permanent displays gave us a deeper appreciation of Aboriginal culture and their struggles. European settlement has been a travesty for these people, as it has been for this fragile, ancient land, its flora and fauna. What is the answer?

A Town Like Alice. Looking across town with the East and West MacDonnell Ranges on either side.

"Fertility": Alice as depicted by artist David Mpetyane. His evocative poem about the town is below.

Toyota country: The wonderful woven Tjitji Toyota and Driver by Kanytjupayi Benson. 

Brilliant landscape and black cockatoos by Lindy Rontji.

The Alice Springs Telegraph Station. Built in 1872, it was the first major structure in central Australia and was an integral part of the telegraphic lifeline that stretched from Singapore to Adelaide via Darwin and put Australia in touch with the world. An engineering marvel and an interesting part of our history. The station later became a "refuge" for part-Aboriginal children removed from their families, later known as the Stolen Generation. Charles Perkins and his mother Hettie lived here for a time. Good and bad times intertwined.

The odometre has just ticked over to 30,000km, the distance we have travelled since leaving Greenwell Point in June last year. 

It continues to be a grand trip. We head to Coober Pedy in South Australia next. I will send an update down the track, the Oodnadatta Track. 

Hoo Roo lovelies.