Harvie Wall Bangers: From the Bizarre to the Ridiculous

Boulia, Bedourie, Birdsville and Betoota

Queensland

August 16 to 21, 2019

We left Mt Isa and entered the land of the Min Min lights at Boulia. The Min Min are mysterious lights that follow people, then disappear, only to reappear later. The above image of the full moon rising is the closest we got to observing this phenomenon while camping near Boulia.

Further down the track was the tiny outpost of Bedourie. What a great town: Artesian spa, 133-year-old pub, Dust Storm sculpture, baby camel and gateway to the Bizarre.

The Royal Hotel was built in 1886 from sun-dried mud bricks.
The only thing that has been replaced in that time is the thatched roof; now tin

The Dust Storm and Whirly Winds sculpture represents spirits passing over the land.

Baby camel, perhaps being nurtured for next year's camel race?

Bedourie's artesian spa was super hot and delicious but looked like a swimming pool so a boring photo.
This bore along the track is far more interesting. These bores tap into the Great Artesian Basin. There is a move to cap the bores but worryingly many still flow freely.

The trip from Bedourie to Birdsville was delightful. The landscape changed dramatically, the birdlife was extraordinary, there was history galore and strange installations along the way.

Let the journey begin.

Brolgas just outside Bedourie ...

... and then they started to dance.

Wedge-tailed eagle searches for prey ...

... while pelicans and water fowl compete for fish in the Eyre River.

Emus sedately cruise the waterholes ...

... watched by exquisite Major Mitchell Cockies.

Bedourie was cut off for weeks during the March floods and much of the country still looks amazing.

Prolific wildflowers where the floods had been ...

... but it didn't take long for the country to dry out.

Carcoory was one of the first properties purchased by Sidney Kidman in 1899.
The ruins of the homestead are all that remain and are now classified by the National Trust.
A desolate spot.

And then the peculiar roadside installations started ...

Mad Max Territory: A strange assortment of broken-down goods, from a lawn mower to washing machine, satellite dish to fire hydrant, old wood stove to folding chair with wine bottle.

A stone table and two benches stand alone in the gibber plain.

Two scruffy peeps take a seat.

An arch of assorted old boots, thongs, joggers ...

Finally, just outside Birdsville is a collection of Waddi Trees. These seemingly unremarkable trees are thought to be remnants of the last ice age. These trees - one of only three stands left in Australia - are thought to be 500 to 1000 years old and are so hard they can break your axe. So don't try to chop them down!

Into Birdsville where we met most excellent friends Raina and Wayne, at the pub naturally.

Wayne, Jen, Raina and Gaz.

Lots of beautiful sculptures around Birdsville ...

... and out to Big Red, the sand dunes on the edge of the Simpson Desert that once a year play host to the Big Red Bash concert.

Fabulous red dunes drifting for hundreds of kilometres.

Garry contemplating their grandeur ...

Scruffy peeps take in the extraordinary landscape ...

...while Raina and Wayne salute the Simpson.

We were a bit early - like three weeks too early - for the Birdsville Races but that didn't stop us having some trackside fun.

Lah de dah race ladies with hats.

Garry on a suspiciously phallic stead.

Speaking of races, Betoota's carnival was scheduled for the week before Birdsville.
More pre race meeting fun.

Jump-up Gaz Man

Three unlikely contenders competing for the Betoota Cup. I always run last.

No one lives at Betoota now, but a band of enthusiasts maintain the pub and open it once a year for the races.

The beautiful stone Dreamtime Serpent mural just outside Betoota.

Fabulous patterned goanna passing through.

We've travelled thousands of kilometres on some of the roughest tracks without incident. Guess what happened an hour after hitting the bitumen heading for Windorah!