Crocs, Rocks and Flocks (Part 1)

Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory

September 7 to 16

Sunrise over the Yellow River

Sandstone outcrop near Ubirr

What a mesmerising, mystical place. We are at the end of the dry season so the park is hot, parched and brutal. But look left or right and you glimpse the verdant wetlands lurking behind the veneer of  dusty eucalypts. It is a miracle. The wetlands are teaming with wildlife - birds, crocodiles, fish, wallabies - plus the introduced baddies - buffalos, brumbies and pigs. We first encountered this phenomenon when we turned off the desiccated Arnhem Highway into the Mamukala Wetlands, below.

There are fresh and salt water crocodiles everywhere. Below is the first saltie we saw up close but it was nothing compared to what was to come. And anyway he wanted no part of us. He turned tail and swam away.

We spent many days with Tom (sister Julie's son) and his girlfriend Jas who are working as rangers for one of the Aboriginal communities. They took us into Arnhem Land, a restricted area, and talked at length about their experiences. Garry and I came away with some understanding of the issues involving the Indigenous Peoples but more confused than ever about their situation. It is so complex and intractable. But their country is amazing.

Looking east from Kakadu to Arnhem Land

Robyn being a good sport for the snap-happy Jennifer

Rock art at Ubirr. This ferocious fellow is well armed and well hung!

Some of the art work is 20,000 years old, layer upon layer of  drawings and paintings.  No one is allowed to touch up a painting but they can draw over the top of them. 

This is a very special place for rock art in Arnhem Land. Tom and Jas got permission to take us there.

Signs of European arrival. 

Jas fascinated by the art. Tom in the background.

Every drawing tells a story. The fellow in the right is Lightening Man complete with stone axes on his knees to make thunder.  On the right is a man who was guilty of incest with his two sisters. As punishment, they were converted into three sandstone pillars on a nearby escarpment. The moral is ....

This fellow is a dangerous spirit who eats females after striking them with a yam.

Party time: Depictions of dancing men and women.

Jas runs a weaving workshop for tourists with the local ladies.

Garry trying his hardest to split the pandanus leaves for the basket fibres.  We all failed.

Sweet relief in the caravan park swimming pool at the end of each day.