Dear Katherine

Nitmiluk NP, Katherine Gorge and Leliyn/Edith Falls

August 23 to August 26

We are very excited about going to Katherine. Shops, a supermarket, fresh food. Woo hoo. We stock up and then turn to the bottle-o to replenish wine and beer supplies. Small problem - the bottle shop doesn't open until 2pm and then for just three hours. We hang in the park doing yoga under the trees until 2pm. The queue when we get to the Thirsty Camel is impressive; as is the police presence. Three burly fellas checking and scanning licences and inquiring as to where we will be consuming said liquor. There are strict limits on what you can buy, especially cask wine. One two litre cask per person. Indicative of the huge alcohol problem in the NT. We fill our boots and head for Nitmiluk National Park and Katherine Gorge.

First Resort: The pool at Nitmiluk Camping ground. We're in heaven.

With day time temperature heading for 40 degrees, Robyn and I set off for a hike up the gorge at 7am. Almost four hours later we rolled back into camp... and spent the rest of the day in the pool.

Garry cooking snags using his head lamp. He's in love with his head lamp.

Dawn cruise up Katherine Gorge. Aahhhhhh.

Can you see the outline of Australia in the rock formation at the top?

First fresh water crocodile spotted.

Second freshie to make an appearance.

Not to be outdone, Mr Buffalo also checked us out.

This little cutie enjoyed our kiwi fruit peel.

The dawn cruise up the first two gorges - there are 13 in total - was spectacular. Learnt lots about its creation, its significance to the Indigenous people and the wildlife. There are about 200 fresh water crocodiles in the system. All are protected. The odd saltie makes it into the first gorge during the wet so no swimming in that one. 

One fascinating snippet about the freshies. When it comes time for mum to lay her eggs, she sticks her snout into the sand to test the temperature. It has to be between 28 and 34 degrees. If she lays them in sand 28-30 degrees, the bubs will be female; if it's 30 to 32 degrees, they'll be a mixed brood; 32 to 34 degrees they are male; more than 34 the eggs are scrambled. Tricky business. They lay 10-20 eggs but only about 1 per cent survive because of predators, particularly goannas. 

After three glorious days at the gorge we move on to Leliyn or Edith Falls also in the Nitmiluk NP. By now Garry is saying "No more gorges, they are becoming like churches in Europe" so we are calling them gullies and canyons. Gorgeous camping ground beside a natural swimming hole. Low risk of salties but we are asked to report any sightings! What the hell, we take the plunge.

That's me waving. Hello, hello.

Garry admiring the latest "gully".

The upper pool. Superb.