A Tale of Four Gorges

Judbarra/Gregory National Park, Northern Territory

September 29 and September 30

 I do love a national park but, crikey, they can be challenging at this time of year. So it proved with Limestone Gorge in Judbarra/Gregory National Park between Katherine and Kununurra. It was a reasonable 40km gravel road in to the park - spotting a wild dingo-ish dog, a bustard and brumbies on the way - but the turn off to the gorge turned nasty. Three kilometres from the walk, we abandoned Pedro and tackled the river bed on foot not wanting to risk a flat tyre or damage.

Rough road. There was not another soul venturing into the gorge. Did they know something we didn't? For sure. 

"We're here, we better do it," said Garry grimly. It was 9am and already 34 degrees. 

Limestone Gorge is a stark, dry landscape, quite beautiful and dramatic in it's own way but in late September it is incredibly hot and the flies are thick - in our eyes, ears, noses, mouths. 

Boab trees by the hundreds. 

The parched view from the top of the ridge.

The vista to East Baines River.
Oh, to splash in its brackish waters but saltie alerts were everywhere.

Lovely bomb in silhouette.

A not happy Garry - head down and heading back. 

Bullita Homestead is just 8km further up the road. It stands as testament to the park's pastoral history and the incredibly tough conditions our pioneering stockmen and women had to endure. National parks have done a splendid job recreating the era with stories and photos. We were humbled by the courage and tenacity of these folk. 

Bullita Homestead and surrounds

The heat and flies drove us back into Timber Creek where we found big shady trees, a cold swimming pool, freshies on the bank and bats in the trees. 

El Questro Wilderness Park, Northern Territory 

October 3 to 5

It's late in the dry season and parts of El Questro Wilderness Park have been closed, however, we were able to clamber through most of the gorges and delight in the cold and hot springs. Our good humour returned, our spirit of adventure was restored. 

The crossing into El Questro Station.

The warm clear waters of Zebedee Springs 

Garry luxuriating in the transparent water.

Hiking up El Questro Gorge

Ahhhh. Beautiful pool all to ourselves. One of the best things about travelling at this time of the year is that we have most of the places to ourselves.  And even manage the odd mini skinny Miss Judy!

Spot the strange bird again frolicking in the wet stuff.

Moonshine Gorge was more exposed with some dramatic cliffs.

Garry imitating a crocodile in Moonshine Gorge. He didn't realise his body was visible. Scary croc, not.

View up Chamberlain Gorge. It is only accessible by boat and the  tours were over for the season. 

The five-star El Questro Homestead perched on cliffs above the Chamberlain River. This is as close as we could get sister Rob! Very exclusive with access denied to all except well-heeled guests. 

We kept our favourite gorge till last: Emma Gorge. The large spring-fed pool is surrounded by a huge sandstone amphitheatre. Absolutely stunning. The waterfall is down to a trickle but the stone overhanging the pool seeps filtered fresh water. It was pure delight.  

On the way up Emma Gorge. 

Arriving at the top of the gorge.

Oh, the frustration of not having a wide-angle camera lens.

Can you see the drips plopping like rain into the water?

On the way back down. Garry is as nimble as a mountain goat. He is always waiting for me. I slip and slide, as clumsy as a jersey cow, even in my new beaut birthday boots. But I say "better safe than sorry" and so far that has worked for me. Ha!