From Hill Billies to Boot Scooting

Little Gems and a Big History

I didn't find that massive gemstone in Sapphire so here we are still trailing through Central Queensland ... and loving it. It's incredibly dry and the roadkill is horrifying but the pride in and history of the region is impressive. 

This post kicks off in Sapphire, real hill billy country 40kms west of Emerald. We arrived in 31 degree heat, espied a swimming pool and took the plunge. The water was a chilly 16 degrees but the cold rush was welcome. I have a great pic of Garry cooking outside in the lovely bush setting wearing just his bathers but he has censored it and threatened to ban all photography if I publish it. Bah humbug. Instead you have boring photos of me fossicking for sapphires (found half a teaspoon) and wearing a silly hat in an underground mine.

Hill Billy Country: First names only and a law unto themselves

Rubyvale Pub: Nothing more to be said about this pic except Garry thought it was time we visited a hotel

The roads are getting longer and straighter

 The Capricorn Highway (it follows the Tropic of Capricorn naturally) took us through Alpha, Jericho and Barcaldine. Gorgeous little towns with plenty of character. We were very taken with Jericho's Drive In Theatre - 36 vehicles and hammocks in the back stalls. I wandered into the town hall next door and was amazed to find a fridge full of beer. Very trusting folk.

  Barcaldine has the Tree of Knowledge which was the site of a massive strike by shearers in 1891 and the birthplace of the Australian Labor Party. Someone poisoned the ghost gum in 2006 but what is left has been preserved and a stunning memorial now surrounds it.

Can you see who is lurking in the background. I've resorted to sneaky pics

Preparing lunch in the van at Barcaldine

 Then it was into Longreach for two nights, a town full of big hats, cowboy boots and country music singers. The drought is biting and the park was a bit of a dust bowl but the big tourist attractions - The Stockman's Hall of Fame and the Qantas Founders Museum - are fabulous. Garry and I walked away from both with a new appreciation of what people endured as they forged a life in the outback. The Hall of Fame also provided a wonderful insight into the dichotomy in attitudes between the early pastoralists and the Aboriginal people, and acknowledged the huge debt owed to the Indigenous stockmen. Much food for thought.

Did you know that the "crack" of a whip occurs when the tip breaks the sound barrier? Whipmaker Anthony Rennick demonstrated his skill in whip making and cracking. The man of a thousand questions - Garry - was in his element.

Is this a heroic photo Ms Dawson? Jen at the Qantas Founders Museum

Longreach Caravan Park - not the best spot but handy to the sights. 

Betty Brolga dropped in looking for food but was disappointed to find there was only beer and wine on offer

We then backtracked 25kms to a wee town called Ilfracombe. It has an incredible outdoor mile-long museum of farm machinery plus indoor displays of bottle and gun collections plus lots of other stuff.

And word had it that Happy Hour at the caravan park was not to be missed. We tootled along and had a ball. Garry told Nick's Tiger Woods/Volvo joke from Pa's funeral and it went down a treat. Picked up some goodies - remind me to tell you the one about the 85-year-old Harley-riding gran and the one about the climbing rose. Finally Marg from Victoria played a few tunes on a coupla gum leaves and we all sang along. We're really getting into the vanning groove now. Yee haa.

Then it was off to Wellshot Pub next door where publican Ross kept us amused. Enjoyed speaking to some of the truckies about life driving a road train.

A mural on the wall of Wellshot Pub that caught Garry's eye